photo by Brie Cohen

After much persuasion, Zander Nolan, 3, took a bite of chili for the first time from his grandpa’s, Frank Nolan, spoon. Zander and Frank came from Kasson with Zander’s brother, Andrew Nolan, and grandma, Jolene Dillemuth to be at the Big Island Bar-B-Que chili competition Friday evening.

Ready, set, barbecue

53 teams came out to compete at fairgrounds

By Sarah Kirchner | Albert Lea Tribune

Published Saturday, August 23, 2008

The smells of barbecue, chili and smoking meat wafted through the air of the Freeborn County Fairgrounds Friday and Saturday as competitors, judges and barbecue enthusiasts gathered for the Big Island Bar-B-Que competition.

For a first-time competition, the turnout was outstanding, said Mark Born of Red Wing. Fifty-three teams showed up for the inaugural competition sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbecue Society and 27 entered in the chili competition Friday night.

The barbecue competition, which took place Saturday, is a fundraiser for the Big Island Rendezvous Education Days. The Rendezvous is a pioneer reenactment at Bancroft Bay Park in October organized by Perry Vining, who also organized the barbecue competition.

“Perry has done a real good job, but Perry had a lot of good help. Without his volunteers, this would not be nearly what it is,” said Born, who gave guidance to the organizers.

The Big Island Bar-B-Que saw cooks compete in four meat categories: chicken, pork, ribs and brisket, after which an overall champion was named. There were also a few optional contests: sauce, dessert, showmanship and chili.

Of the 53 teams, 43 competed in all four meat categories. Vining said 34 teams submitted sauces and 31 teams were in the desserts competition. Vining said the Big Island Bar-B-Que gave away $12,600 in cash and prizes.

Born helped start the first state barbecue competition in Cambridge 12 years ago, which three years ago moved to Austin. The first year he only had a dozen entrants.

He cooks 21 contests a year across the country and has been to the Jack Daniels World Championship Barbecue Contest four times. Born has competed for 15 years and last year was the world pork champion.

“He steps up the level of every contest he’s in,” said Todd Severson of Lake City.

Born was the team to beat in barbecue competitions, Severson said, but he is also the guy to turn to for help and mentoring. Outside of competing across the nation, Born teaches competitive barbecue classes.

Barbecue cooks come from far and wide — and in this case mostly Minnesota but a few other Midwestern states — to put their barbecue and smoked meat recipes to the test.

“There’s an adrenaline rush that all cooks get,” Born said. “This is where the culinary arts have hit fire and smoke, and that’s what I love about the competition.”

Plus, there’s a friendship and camaraderie to the sport.

“We have a family of people we cook with,” said Randy Appelgren of Coon Rapids. “If we want to see each other, we have to come and cook the contest.”

Terri Hollingsworth of Minneapolis said it is an intense hobby.

“And it’s a hobby. You don’t do it for the money,” she said. “Blood, sweat and tears — it’s all true.”

Music helped create the friendly and jovial atmosphere. On Friday, Cajun Hot Soles, Whistling Pigs and L.D. Cruiser & the Tones played. Saturday had Plan B, Moses Oakland Quintet, Whistling Pigs and John Goodsall.

The entries were judged first on appearance, then on taste and last on tenderness. However, appearance is weighted the lowest and taste is rated the highest, Born said.

The winner moves on to the American Royal Barbecue Contest in Kansas City, Mo., Oct. 2-5. He will also get $2,000 and a Hawken black-powder rifle.

However, Born said most cooks are after a chance to compete in the Jack Daniels contest. The champion of all state championships goes into a drawing for a chance to compete. There are five state championships in Minnesota.

“Next year we’re hoping bigger and better,” said volunteer Richard Marquardt.

The Albert Lea Convention and Visitors Bureau and Piggy Blues Bar-B-Que approached Vining with the idea of starting a new event, he said. Susie Petersen, CVB executive director, said she wanted a barbecue contest in the area for a few years to get people into town for an event.